Friday, November 11, 2011

AUTUMN in the BLUFFS






These are some stellar warm late October days in the unglaciated bluffs of S.E. Minnesota. Head to Houston for the bounty and beauty of a Minnesota Autumn; Houston County that is; the extreme corner of Southeast Minnesota butting up against Wisconsin & Iowa.


This is the apple belt with apple orchards spreading across the vast bluff lands along the Mississippi River. Hiking into the forest in Autumn is a trip to your soul; the essence of life comes bubbling forth. These forests are rich and varied with Black Walnuts, Butternut, Hickory, White & Red & Burr Oaks, Maples, Aspen, Birch, White Pine, Cedar and Ash dominating the landscape. It is a haven for deer, turkeys, black squirrels, red fox, and eagles.


It is an uneven fall color change this year, some trees are green, some bare, oaks have little color, maples and aspens are muted and mostly down with spotty brilliant trees. The leaf change is a week to 10 days early, overlayed by summer phenology that is running equally late. October is warm, it will be the 8th warmest October ever. The leaves on the forest floor are dry and crisp and crackle under my waffle soled Danner hikers. Six to 8 foot tall golden prairie grass waves in the wind, the sun heats up my face, my spirit is warmed.



The sun drops as an orange ball beneath the Mississippi River throwing the Autumn forest in an even warmer orange glow. Darkness ebbs in as the stars spin up spawning meteors and satellites tracking across the sky. My fire throws yet another orange light into the forest. The owl hoots and a pack of coyotes yelp from a nearby bluff to announce their presence. The midnight air chills down to 50 degrees bringing additional weight to the fire.



Morning breaks crisp adding some urgency to cranking up a fire; for the warmth sure but more for the coffee. I grab my hickory hiking stick and walk into the woods and across an open stretch of head high grass. A powder blue dragonfly lifts off straight up and vanishes into an equally powder blue sky. I hike across a limestone ridge into the Queens Bluff Scientific & Natural Area, a preserve primarily for the dwindling and beautiful Timber Rattlesnake.


I am at the head of the valley formed by Kings & Queens Bluff which tower 500 feet above the Mississippi. The bluff is so steep that trees cannot grab hold to grow. These 'goat prairies' are common in Bluffland. I reach the apex of Queens with a limestone perch overlooking a long stretch of the braided Mississippi. The river is very high and a cold 58 degrees. A cold breeze rolls off the river up the bluff while a warm breeze rises up the goat prairies. Eagles and Turkey Vultures frequently ride these thermals to scan the bluffs for prey.


I roll back to camp and take Apple Blossom Drive down to Bauer's market in LaCrescent for all the bounty of the season; apples, cider, blackberry and strawberry jam, honey, pumpkins, curds, organic popcorn and a close up view of the river I've only seen from atop the bluffs. It is roll time but I am refreshed and invigorated by my time in the bluffs; an understated landscape of peace and tranquility and strength that counterbalances the wear and tear of life.
THE HICKORY HIKER

















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